Pressure Gauge
This handy little tool is easy to use and can be picked up at most home improvement or hardware stores. It has an attachment very much like the end of a garden hose and hooks up to your faucet the same way.
Look for the faucet that’s closest to the water main — this might be in your basement or on the outside of your house. Make sure you have all your water fixtures and appliances turned off. Attach the pressure gauge to the faucet (make sure it’s on tight) and turn the water all the way on.
Give it a few seconds and take a look at the gauge. Ideally, you want your water pressure to be between 40 and 60 psi. Anything over 80 psi and you’re in the danger zone.

Pressure Reduction Valve
A pressure reduction valve, or pressure regulator is a device that is installed on the water main that slows down the water going into your home. The International Plumbing Code requires every home built after 2002 to have one of these installed. These valves have a lifespan of 7 to 12 years, so depending on when your home was built you might be due for an upgrade.

Older homes may not have a pressure reduction valve, and if you have high water pressure, getting one installed could solve your pressure problem almost immediately. It’s not a job for beginners, so if you’re not comfortable cutting pipes and working with some tools you might want to leave it to a professional.

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Nothing is going to tell you more about your home’s water pressure than an actual pressure gauge. But your home will give you some hints and clues to let you know it’s time to go and get an accurate reading.

Check up on Your Faucets
The faucets in your home can show you telltale signs of high water pressure. Faucets have a lot of small parts like washers and aerators that can wear down quickly if they’re under the constant stress of high water pressure.
The first thing to look out for is leaking faucets --especially faucets that leak when another fixture like your shower is being used. Another common symptom you might notice is spitting or bursting when you first turn a faucet on. Or, you might notice that when your faucet is turned all the way on, there is excess water spraying out an angle apart from the typical steady stream.

Listen to Your Pipes
Do you ever notice a “banging” sound in your plumbing? It’s called water hammer, and it’s a major sign that you have some serious water pressure problems.
Water hammer happens when a fast, powerful flow of water suddenly stops moving. When you have high water pressure and you suddenly turn off a faucet, all that water bangs into your pipes like a little freight train. Sometimes we forget just how much of a force of nature water can actually be.

Pay Attention to Your Appliances
Appliances can tip you off to pressure problems in a number of ways. The most obvious thing to look out for is leaking. Washing machines, water heaters and automatic dishwashers can all start leaking if they’re subjected to extreme water pressures over a long period of time.

Sometimes they won’t leak at all. They’ll just wear out an need to be replaced far sooner than they’re meant to be. If you feel like you’ve only had half the time you thought you would with an appliance, if could be the wear and tear of high water pressure.

Running around the house turning on faucets and listening for water hammer is a good start, but if you really want to know exactly what is going on with your home’s plumbing, you’re going to need some tools. 
Appliances can tip you off to pressure problems in a number of ways. The most obvious thing to look out for is leaking. Washing machines, water heaters and automatic dishwashers can all start leaking if they’re subjected to extreme water pressures over a long period of time.

Sometimes they won’t leak at all. They’ll just wear out an need to be replaced far sooner than they’re meant to be. If you feel like you’ve only had half the time you thought you would with an appliance, if could be the wear and tear of high water pressure.

Running around the house turning on faucets and listening for water hammer is a good start, but if you really want to know exactly what is going on with your home’s plumbing, you’re going to need some tools.

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The issues that arise when we have high water pressure have a tendency of creeping up on us. Early detection is key. Here’s a few reasons to think about high water pressure in your home:

It’s hurting your pipes. Water is deceptively powerful. It does its damage over long periods of time and by the time we notice something’s wrong, the damage is already done. High water pressure flowing and stopping in the pipes causes long-term damage, leading to small leaks (which can mean black mold and structural damage) and even pipe bursts.

Wear and tear on appliances and fixtures. You know that state-of-the-art washing machine you just traded your last paycheck for? High water pressure is an appliance killer. It’ll cut the lifespan of expensive appliances and you’ll be replacing them sooner than you think. And this wear and tear applies to smaller fixtures like faucets, shower heads and toilets.

It can damage your water heater. When water heats up, it expands. Most water heaters have a thermal expansion tank to help take on that extra volume. But if your water pressure is consistently high, your water heater might run out of space for that expanding water to go. You can imagine what happens next — it’s not pretty (or cheap).

Wasted water and higher utility bills. When your water pressure is too high, you’re letting out more water every time you turn on a faucet. All of that adds up in the long run. If you live in a place where you have to pay for the water you use, high pressure could end up costing you.

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If you have a hot water boiler system (not a low-pressure steam boiler - there is a huge difference between the two) or a chilled water system (not many chilled water systems in residential but I have seen them) then you have a closed loop piping system that runs to either convectors, radiators, or a coil or two somewhere in the system where the main heat exchange process takes place. That is a closed loop where the water runs to these convectors or coils to provide heating or cooling. Furthermore, it is important to maintain the proper pressure inside that closed-loop piping system — an Pressure Vessel helps to maintain the proper pressures in the loop.

Inside this piping is water (sometimes a water/glycol mix but that is mainly in commercial applications), and when water heats and cools down, it expands and contracts. Furthermore, the piping system, along with the parts of the boiler or chiller that has water, cannot handle this expansion and contraction with breaking or busting open. Therefore in every hydronic system, there is an Pressure Vessel to handle this expansion and contraction. Furthermore, an Pressure Vessel is a shock absorber that absorbs this expansion and contraction of the volume of the water.

It is critical that pressure vessel receive periodic maintenance. Furthermore, for bladder-type pressure vessel maintenance should include:

• Test the pressure charge on an annual basis. As the system ages, more frequently. That should be done by a professional as there are certain procedures to follow when checking the charge and recharging the pressure if it is not at the proper charge.
• Check the tank for rust or corrosion.
• Lastly, ensure tanks are properly mounted and installed the proper location. Additionally, the tank should be supported to prevent stress on connecting piping.

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A pressure vessel is a bladder type pressure storage vessel designed to hold water under pressure. It extends the time the pump is on and off in each cycle due to the pressure switch not tripping so often. This extends pump life, makes less noise, quietens water hammering and cycling and gives a more consistent flow rate. The pressure tank can also be used to moderate the water flow to match your Hot Water Service or air conditioning unit.

What are the benefits of having a pressure vessel?                                                                                                    
The addition of the pressure vessel helps to quieten your pump and reduces pump cycling and hammering. When the tap is turned on the excess water which is held in accumulated storage in the pressure tank will be released to the outlet first. This means the pump does not have to turn on until the stored water has first been used. Thus extending pump life, battery life and giving you a smoother quieter operation. 

What if I don't have a pressure vessel?                                                                                                                      
Pumps will work without a pressure vessel, as there are automatic pumps fitted with a constant pressure controller so these pumps start and start on demand. We recommend having a pressure tank particularly when you have a shower or a toilet where the pump is rarely operating at 100%. Without a pressure tank or accumulator tank the strain will be on your pressure switch/controller, which may cause it to fail early at an inconvenient moment.

Can I add a pressure vessel to my current setup?
Pressure tanks can be fitted to new or existing pump systems.

Where do I position the pressure vessel?
Your pressure vessel needs to fitted on the outlet side of the pump before the water heater or outlets. The pressure tank usually sits on top of your pump or side by side with your pump.

Does the pressure tank come pre-charged?
Yes, all our pressure vessels offered come pre-charged from the factory. Your user manual / operators manual will show you the pre-charged rating

Does a pressure tank help with cycling and water hammering?
The addition of the pressure vessel helps reduces pump cycling and hammering. When the tap is turned on the excess water which is held in accumulated storage in the pressure tank will be released to the outlet first. This means the pump does not have to turn on until the stored water has first been used. Thus extending pump life, battery life and giving you a smoother quieter operation.

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You install a pressure vessel anywhere on the delivery or pressurised side of a system. All pressure pump systems need a check valve (or 1 way valve) installed in the pipework. This can be installed on the suction side (as a foot valve or on the pump inlet) or just after the pump on the outlet. The check valve stops water flowing backwards and the pressure dropping when the pumps turns off. This allows a pressure pump to build up pressure and let the automatic switch turn it off.

A pressure vessel can be installed anywhere after this check valve. This means that when all the taps in the system are shut, then the pressure in the system builds. When the water pressure in the system builds to beyond the air pressure sored in the tank, then the air starts to compress and the water fills up the wet side of the tank. Once the wet side of the tank has compressed the air as much as it can, then the pressure builds a little bit more and then switches off.

You simply cut in a T piece or a tapping saddle into the outlet pipework and have a pipe or a piece of pressure hose across to the inlet of the tank. Some tanks (up to about 15L) are OK to mount on the pipe or on top of the pump. Once they get beyond this size, they usually have to be mounted on a base and most of the time they actually come with a base .
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Pressure tanks are a cheap, simple and effective piece of gear that will help protect your pump and provide you with a good constant pressure and flow of water for whatever application you need.

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Check for Clogged Pipes
Low water pressure could exist because you have clogged pipes with a build-up of hard water, sediment, or minerals. In this case, you'll have to clean out your pipes. Increasing the water pressure won't help, but it could cause water system damage if there are clogged pipes. Not only that, but you could spend a lot of time and money trying to change the pressure control switch (mentioned below) when that's not even the problem. That is why you must be certain that the problem is not a clogged pipe before trying something else. Next, check to see that all of the faucets and shower heads are also clean and clear of buildup that could be blocking water flow. If they're clogged, take the time to clean them off.

Install Contant pressure System
If you know clogged pipes are not an issue and you notice that whenever you're running water from more than one tap and the water pressure drops, the solution could be as simple as installing a constant water pressure system. This will keep your well water pressure constant, even when you use more than one faucet at a time.
Fortunately, a constant water pressure system is pretty easy to install, too. You can install it on the line where your water enters your home, usually in the basement. This can also be used if the height of your building is impacting the water pressure on the upper floors or if your water pressure tank and pump are too far away from the point of water use.

Adjust The Pressure Tank
Another solution is to adjust the pressure tank. Pressure tanks have gauges that will tell you how much pressure is flowing through your pipes. If it's below 40 psi, you might want to increase it. Just remember to not adjust it to above 60 psi because that could cause water pipe breakage, leaks, and switch failure.

To adjust the pressure tank, first turn off the circuit breaker, which supplies power to the well pump. Once that's done, locate the air fill valve on top of the pressure tank. This valve is much like a tire valve. To find out what the psi currently is, attach a tire pressure gauge to get the pressure reading. For more info contact pressure vessel supplier in dubai or call us at +971 4 252 2966

Step 1 - Turn off Power to Well Pressure Tank
Before doing any type of work to the well pressure tank, it is important to make sure that the power is turned off. This should be done at the breaker box. Once you turn the breaker off, test the tank to make sure there isn't any power. Also, leave a note attached to the breaker letting others know that you are working on that item.

Step 2 - Drain Water from Tank 
Attach the garden hose to the drain at the bottom of the tank. It is usually located on the bottom edge of the tank. Simply attach the hose to the drain by screwing it onto the faucet-like outlet. With the hose on the drain and the other end leading into a bucket or out a door, open the valve. The water should begin to immediately drain from the tank.

Step 3 - Remove Air Regulator
Located at the top of your well pressure tank is the air regulator that shows how much pressure is in the tank. This can be removed with the use of a pair of adjustable pliers. Carefully remove it so that you do not damage it.

Step 4 - Remove Access Hatch
Located on the top of the pressure tank are a few screws that hold the access panel to the pressure tank. Loosen these screws and remove them. Lift the access hatch away from the tank and shine a flashlight into the tank.

Step 5 - Wipe Out Build Up
Anything with water is going to have some type of calcium build up within the internal workings of it. Wipe out the inside of the well pressure tank with a rag. If you can not remove some of the build-ups, use a piece of steel wool. Scrub the calcium deposits off the pressure tank and pipes.

Step 6 - Replace Access Hatch
Set the access hatchback onto the well pressure tank and tighten it down with the screws.

Step 7 - Replace Air Regulator
If the regulator looks like it is not working correctly, test it with an air pressure tester. If needed, replace it with a new one. Wrap some plumber's teflon tape around the threads and screw into the housing. Tighten it down with the pliers.

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